Sunset and Sunrise on the Ganges

Before I tell you about the sunrise and sunset....I think I forgot to mention a key element in Varanasi. Remember the winding corridors I was talking about- the ones that wind up several sets of stairs from all the ghats along the Ganges? I failed to mention that although the corridors are extremely narrow, they are not just shared with other humans. Besides watching out for the groups of men carrying the dead down to the Ganges, it is very important to watch out for the multitudes of cows, dogs, and goats that wander the alleys as well. And...well...where there are cows, and dogs, and goats.... there is...how can I say this? They don't use toilets, let's just say that. So, there you have it. I have had to dodge more feces and come face to face with more cows (and they are HUGE here) in these tight alley ways than I ever thought possible. It really takes Indian street navigation to a whole new level of difficulty. Who the heck knows how those cows get up all those stairs? One of the many mysteries of India.
Anyway....last night, after recovering from the intensity of watching a few funeral pyres, Matt and I headed out to the main ceremonial ghat for sunset. Each night the holy men gather to give thanks to the setting sun. Tourists and townspeople gather to watch as the holy men light incense, ring bells, and light bowls full of cow dung (there is plenty to go around, after all), and perform an elaborate dance to chanting and music. They mostly face the river and bow to it in reverence to its holy status. It is quite a sight to behold, as is much of the activity on the Ganges.
This morning, we woke up before sunrise and took a boat ride on the Ganges. The same type of ceremony, although less elaborate, takes place at the main ghat for sunrise each morning. The early morning light gave the Ganges, the ghats, and the temples along the ghats a beautiful glow. It was breathtaking to see the bright orange sun rise up over the river, and to watch people begin there days by meditating, bathing, and doing yoga along the river.
Today we head to Sarnath, the place where Buddha gave his first sermon. We will be there for three lazy days, (since we are lazy tourists, after all), and then we head to Hardiwar. Outside of Hardiwar is the town of Rishkesh, the town where the Beatles went to stay in an ashram and wrote much of "The White Album". It remains a hippy enclave in India to this day.
Stay tuned! :)