Diamond in the Rough

You are probably wondering what the heck we have been up to, instead of just my silly commentary on everything, eh? (scroll down to other posts to get your fill on said silly commentary)...
So, in a nutshell: we have been trying to figure out India. After leaving Mammallapuram, the touristy beach spot I mentioned a few blogs ago, we headed to Pudicherry. Pudicherry is a town that was colonized by the French and still holds aspects of French culture in both its architecture and food. We enjoyed two nights there after a little bit of a harrowing journey to get to the town. Last week marked the celebration called "Pongal"- a harvest celebration, similar to Thanksgiving in the U.S. It is a four-day holiday, and so many Indians are out and about, enjoying time off and traveling to see family. On the third day, the tradition is to paint the cows and give them a feast. That means that the many homeless dogs around are quite busy trying to make themselves look like calves, so that they can partake in the feast. That's what Matt told me, anyway. Ha!
So, with all the travel, and the fact that there are, um... a billion people in this country, well- we had a hard time getting out of Mam. and to Pudicherry. We waited for a few hours, and every bus that passed was full. And when I say full, I mean men hanging off the sides of the bus. We weren't going to get anywhere unless we employed an alternative means. So we paid a taxi to take us, and split it with this British couple we met at the bus stand. It was an interesting ride- the British told us all about how they lived in Goa ( a beach resort in India) half the year, but really they hated it and didn't think we should go there. Also, they hated Thailand when they traveled there. Oh, and the Taj Mahal? Not worth it, they said. Totally overrated. They also told us about how they hated their current Prime Minister, as well as Tony Blair, and in fact, the only decent Prime Minister they have had in recent history is Margaret Thatcher. And Obama? Well, we'll see about him. Did you know he is not really back? Because his mom is white, so it doesn't count. Darn, and I thought this was going to be a historic moment. Oh, well.
But, they were pleasant enough (really!) and we got to our destination relatively on the cheap and in style compared to the bus. Pudicherry did not disappoint. We went to some fabulous restaurants and mostly enjoyed walking the beach and watching locals celebrate Pongal. We went to a temple dedicated to Ganesh and there was an ELEPHANT parked outside! A real live elephant!
Later, after exploring a few more temples, we discovered that the elephant is a mainstay at major Hindu temples. People give the elephant money or food (he can sort out which is which), and the elephant returns the favor by "blessing" them with a tap on the head.
After Pudicherry, we went to another temple town....please don't ask me the name, because I really can't recall, and Matt has the travel guide right now. We spent one night there at Hotel Ganesh (sensing a theme?), and while there we visited the temple twice as well as a local ashram. The ashram was founded by a man that spent 20 years meditating in a cave on a hilltop, achieved samahdi ( a state where consciousness leaves the body), returned down from the hilltop, and started the ashram. It was a beautiful , peaceful place.
After that unnamed town (sorry!), we went to Thanjuvar. There we saw one of the temples listed as a World Heritage Site. It was built in 999, and was in almost perfect condition. We enjoyed a concert on the lawn within the confines of the temple, and watched an incredible sunset. That was a truly magical night, making it worth all the trouble it took to get to and from Thanjuvar.
Trouble is in no short supply in India. Perhaps Matt and I are just a bit rusty on the 3rd world travel thing, or perhaps it is that India takes 3rd world travel to a whole new level. I already mentioned the crowded bus situation. There is also the plain-old crowded situation. It is easy to understand that there are a billion people in India once you are here. With that overpopulation comes terrible pollution and noise. There are few public toilets, and so the streets and alleys become toilets. The smell is a bit intense at times, and you have to be careful where you put your feet at all times- urine, cow feces, dog feces, who knows what you could step on. That, and the utter chaos of the drivers here. Horns are the common language, and they are used without hesitation. And then there are the beggars, also not in short supply. All of this makes a simple walk down a city street seem like an epic journey. At times, it is downright exhausting, and Matt and I have both questioned our ability to endure and enjoy ourselves here.
Yet, in the midst of the chaos, beautiful things happen. The other day we were on an unbelievably packed bus when the driver stopped to let on even more people. It just didn't seem possible to pack more people in. An older lady climbed on and tapped me on the shoulder, handing me her bag to carry on my empty lap. I took it and smiled- she responded by pinching my cheek, smiling and chuckling. She then placed her hand on my back for the rest of the ride. Yesterday, we traveled to the mountain town Kodaikanal, where we are camped out now. It was a five hour bus ride, one we were both dreading. But instead, it turned out to be great! The bus driver entertained us with his Indian music blaring over the speakers, and best yet, he honked his horn to the beat of the music. It was hilarious- I laughed on and and off the whole way here!
And so, in the middle of the night last night, I woke up and realized that India is a contradiction- a wonder, a beauty, a difficult and trying place. A diamond in the rough.